We spent two weeks in Bolivia and were pleasantly surprised. We had no expectations, however we really quite liked it. In addition to our stop in Copacabana on Lake Titicaca and a couple of days at the Uyuni Salt flats (check out earlier blogs) we also spent time in La Paz and Sucre.
As we drove in from the airport through El Alto and into La Paz the first thing that struck us was the density and the reddish hue of the thousands of buildings made from the seemingly mandatory clay bricks.
Bolivia has a population of around 12.5 million with more than 2 million of them living in the metropolitan area of La Paz. And space wise, it is not that big a city.
The other thing that quickly came to our attention was the apparent love of protests. One of the guides we had informed us that it is simply a part of life there and any disruptions rarely lasted more than 2 – 3 hours.
It is important you don’t get the wrong idea, we never felt unsafe. The traffic congestion and the altitude were the only two things we had challenges with while we were there. At 3650 metres above sea level La Paz holds the distinction of being the highest capital city in the world. As it is built in a very hilly area this can be a challenge when it comes to walking around.
I have gained a true appreciation of coca tea during our time at these higher elevations. I don’t know if it actually helps with the altitude or if it is just a placebo effect, but either way, I like it. Though I believe I may have trouble acquiring a decent supply of coca leaves to continue enjoying my new tea of choice outside of South America.One of the go to sights to see in La Paz is a place called Witches Market. Going with a guide was much more interesting and I found it fascinating.I didn’t go all in though. The thought of buying a llama fetus offering for the gods is just a bit too far out of my wheelhouse.I found the natural wonders of Valle de la Luna more to my tastes.The local lady watering the desert rocks was too much of an iconic shot to pass up.The landscape certainly explained why Neil Armstrong commented when he saw it that it looked like the moon. Hence the name.The coolest thing we found in La Paz is their gondola system. The Mi Teleferico network is made up of 11 different lines and operates as part of their public transit system. It is the longest, highest cable car network in the world.
As much as we enjoyed seeing La Paz we did find it a bit intense, so it was a relief to head to Sucre for a few relaxing days. Due to a civil war that ended in 1899 both La Paz and Sucre are considered to be capitals of Bolivia. La Paz is the administrative centre, with Sucre being the Judicial centre of the country.
Without a doubt we preferred our time in Sucre. A much more chill vibe and a lot more pleasant rooftop bars to watch the sunset from.Karen also found us a lovely boutique hotel with a very neat courtyard.And cool views from the rooftop patios.Our room even had a fancy enclosed balcony so we could watch the world walking by.
With a population of about 300,000 Sucre has a less metropolitan feel. Lots of trendy coffee shops, restaurants and bars left us spoiled for choices.
We had a school right next to our hotel and on couple of days we were able to watch parades from our balcony. It may have been due to Semana Santa. They even had a Venezuelan marching band leading both the parades. it was neat to see.
We took in a walking tour in Sucre and as is the norm, it was excellent. It was very educational to get a handle on a bit of the history and culture of the area.
This little tower was designed by the same individual who built the Eiffel Tower in Paris. The desire of the elite in the South American cities to emulate turn of the century Europe is amazing to see. Though I feel this one missed the mark, most of the turn of the century architecture is quite spectacular.The Sucre City Hall is a nice example.Despite the fact that most of South America is heavily Catholic there are plenty of examples of lovely churches and cathedrals falling into disrepair. To help with finances this one has opened a cafe on one part of its roof to generate more income. It certainly has one of the more impressive views as you make your way to your table. As a rule, Sucre is simply a pleasant place to be. From a very laid back changing of the guard at the presidential palace.To beautiful vibrant markets that just make you wish you had access to a decent kitchen so you could enjoy the incredible produce.To iconic historic side streets that speak to an age gone by. It is a city to be savoured at a comfortable pace.We even had a bit of fun matching some historic sights to the images stamped on their coins. Sorry for the fuzzy photo, sometimes one has to sacrifice.And did I mention coca? The chocolate here is to die for. Delicious. Also the region is known for dinosaur footprints. This is as close as we got to them though.We did find things we enjoyed in La Paz, but for us, if we are passing through again it will be Sucre that will draw us in.
Come on down and try both and decide for yourself.
Leave a Reply